A guide to pruning pistachio trees from the basics to automation

Golden pruning tips for pistachio trees - Timing: Late winter, before bud swell, on dry days. In cold regions, wait until the main frost risk has passed. Avoid heavy pruning in autumn. - Ideal form: Open vase or modified leader with 4–5 strong primary scaffolds set at 50–70° angles and 15–25 cm of vertical spacing. - Trunk height: About 100–120 cm for airflow and compatibility with mechanized harvest. - Cut type: Prefer thinning cuts over heading cuts so light penetrates the canopy and fewer watersprouts are produced. - Shoot selection: Remove upright shoots inside the canopy, crossing/rubbing limbs, and dead, diseased, or broken wood; keep outward, wide-angled branches. - Managing alternate bearing: In on-years, prune a bit harder (to stimulate vegetative growth and moderate next year’s crop); in off-years, prune more lightly. - Males vs. females: Prune male trees slightly harder with light heading to produce more one-year-old wood (spring pollen source); prune female trees more gently to preserve fruiting wood. - Cut hygiene: Prune only in dry weather; disinfect tools with 70% alcohol or sodium hypochlorite; remove and destroy diseased debris (risk of Botryosphaeria/Cytospora canker). - Sunscald protection: After opening the canopy and making large cuts, whitewash interior branches with diluted white latex paint (1:1 with water). - After pruning: Dial back irrigation and nitrogen slightly to control watersprout growth; avoid leaving “stubs”—cut just outside the branch collar.

Tree pruning: A smart investment for a productive and healthy garden

pruning, as a key management strategy in modern horticulture, plays a vital role in optimizing the economic performance of orchards. This complex process, which is based on physiological, ecological and biomechanical principles of the plant, requires a deep understanding of the relationships between vegetative and reproductive growth, knowledge of plant health principles and mastery of operational techniques.

Environmental Stress Management Strategies in Modern Horticulture: Scientific Solutions to Deal with Drought, Salinity, and Cold

Environmental stresses are among the most important challenges facing professional orchardists, causing significant economic losses annually. This article reviews the scientific literature and provides practical solutions for managing three major environmental stresses (drought, salinity, and cold) using the latest research findings and modern horticultural techniques

What is plasticulture?

What is plasticulture? Plasticulture (also called plastic mulch or mulch film) is a thin plastic sheet laid over the bed or raised beds to conserve soil moisture, suppress weeds, optimize soil temperature, and keep fruit/plants clean. Drip tape is typically installed beneath the film before transplanting or seeding, and holes are punched in the film at each plant position. Common names - Plastic mulch, mulch film, plastic mulch Material and typical specs - Material: LDPE/LLDPE (low-density/linear low-density polyethylene); biodegradable options also exist (e.g., PLA/PBAT/starch blends). - Thickness: about 20–50 microns (25–30 for a single season; 40–50 for heavier-duty use). - Width: matched to bed width and row spacing (e.g., 80–120 cm). - Best paired with: drip irrigation under the film.

What advantages does planting pistachio seedlings by the combined method have over direct field sowing?

What advantages does planting pistachio seedlings by the combined method have over direct field sowing? Benefits of the combined method compared with direct sowing of seed in the field - Variety uniformity and sex control: Pistachio is dioecious. With direct sowing, the male/female ratio and growth type are random. With grafted seedlings, the desired female cultivar is set from the start, and you can design the exact number and placement of male trees. - Earlier bearing: Grafted seedlings usually reach economic production sooner, because early growth is accelerated in the nursery and the scion comes from a selected, mature mother tree. - Lower establishment losses: Sturdy, nursery-grown seedlings better withstand pests, birds, early cold, and drought, so field “take” rates are higher. - Rootstock choice: You can choose rootstocks better adapted/tolerant to salinity, lime, soilborne diseases, and nematodes—options that are limited or uncertain with direct seeding. - Lower downstream costs: You won’t have to remove unwanted trees (excess males or weak individuals) as much, and there’s less need for field grafting. The orchard layout is uniform and correct from day one. - Flexible planting window: Container seedlings can be planted over a wider window than seeds, which are sensitive to soil temperature and moisture. - Hygiene and nutrition management: Substrate disinfection, balanced feeding, disease monitoring, and root pruning are handled in the nursery, so post-transplant establishment is faster. - Simpler field operations: Uniform growth makes irrigation scheduling, training/pruning, and setting windbreaks/stakes in the first years easier and less costly.

Modern Methods for Planting Pistachio Seedlings

Modern Methods for Planting Pistachio Seedlings If you want to establish a modern, uniform, and low-risk pistachio orchard, “modern seedling-planting methods” cover everything from rootstock choice and planting layout to irrigation and nutrition. Below is a practical, step-by-step guide. 1) Site selection and testing - Soil testing to 120–150 cm: texture, active lime, salinity (ECe), exchangeable sodium (ESP/SAR), and any hardpan. - Irrigation water quality: EC, SAR/sodium, chloride, and boron. Pistachio is relatively tolerant, but young seedlings are sensitive. - Drainage: the water table should be below 1.5–2 m. In heavy soils, use check-beds/raised beds. 2) Land preparation (before planting) - Deep plowing and subsoiling in one or two directions to 60–100 cm to break compaction layers. - Salinity/sodicity correction: add gypsum when SAR/ESP is high and carry out a planned leaching program. - Gentle laser leveling for uniform water distribution. - Organic matter improvement: broadcast and lightly mix in well-matured compost (10–20 t/ha). Do not put fresh manure in the planting hole. 3) Choosing rootstock and current cultivars - Certified, disease-free, container-grown (tall pot) seedlings with straight, non-circling roots. - Rootstocks: - UCB-1 (preferably clonal, if available): vigorous, better tolerance to Verticillium, more uniform yield; moderately sensitive to severe freezes. - Pistacia atlantica (beneh/subsp. mutica): more tolerant of drought and salinity; slower growth; relatively more susceptible to Verticillium. - Pistacia integerrima: vigorous with better Verticillium tolerance; sensitive to cold and salinity. - Market-preferred Iranian cultivars: Ahmad-Aghaei, Akbari, Kalleh-Ghuchi, Fandoghi. Always select a male that flowers concurrently with the female cultivar(s).

Comprehensive Guide to Planting Saplings and Post-Planting Care

Saplings form the foundation of agriculture, horticulture, and green spaces, playing a vital role in food production, environmental conservation, and natural beauty. Successful sapling cultivation depends on two key factors: proper planting techniques and post-planting care

Solid organic fertilizers

Benefits and Considerations of Solid Organic Fertilizers Solid organic fertilizers can be beneficial for many soil types, but their effectiveness depends on the specific soil conditions. Soil Structure Improvement: Organic fertilizers like compost can enhance soil structure, especially in heavy clay soils that require better drainage. Nutrient Release: These fertilizers contain a variety of nutrients that are released gradually, increasing soil fertility over time. Moisture Retention: Organic fertilizers help retain soil moisture, which is especially useful for sandy or dry soils. Microbial Activity: Adding organic fertilizers can boost microbial diversity and activity in the soil. Considerations: Sandy Soils: In sandy soils, organic fertilizers may decompose quickly, failing to provide nutrients for an extended period. Selection of Fertilizer: The amount and type of organic fertilizer should be chosen based on the specific needs of the soil and plants. Overapplication Risks: Excessive use can lead to increased salinity or instability in the soil. Nutrient-Rich Soils: In nutrient-rich soils, there may be no need to add organic fertilizers, and doing so could cause nutrient imbalances.

What types of fertilizers are suitable for soil amendment?

Types of Fertilizers Suitable for Soil Amendment There are various types of fertilizers and amendments that can help improve soil quality and increase its fertility. Here are some of these options: Organic Fertilizers: Compost: A mixture of organic materials that improves soil structure and increases nutrient content. Vermicompost: Fertilizer produced from worms, rich in nutrients and beneficial microorganisms. Manure: Animal waste (from cows, chickens, etc.) that must be fully decomposed to prevent disease. Chemical Fertilizers: Nitrogen Fertilizers: Such as urea and nitrates, essential for plant growth. Phosphorus Fertilizers: Such as superphosphate, which helps strengthen roots and promote flowering and fruiting. Potassium Fertilizers: Such as potassium chloride, which improves plant resistance to stress. Mineral Fertilizers: Gypsum: Used to amend saline soils and improve soil structure. Calcium and Magnesium: Important for nutrient balance and improving soil pH. Soil Amendments: Peat Moss: Enhances water retention and aeration in soil. Perlite and Vermiculite: Improve drainage and aeration. Microbial Fertilizers: Beneficial Microorganisms: Such as bacteria and fungi that enhance the decomposition of organic materials and increase soil fertility. Plant-Based Fertilizers: Fertilizers from Plants: Such as those made from algae, which supply nutrients and enhance soil biodiversity.

Medicinal plants

Medicinal Plants Medicinal plants play a significant role in both traditional and modern medicine due to their therapeutic properties and various uses. Here are some well-known medicinal plants and their benefits: Saffron Properties: Antidepressant, appetite stimulant, digestion improvement. Uses: In tea, desserts, and dishes. Chamomile Properties: Calming, anti-inflammatory, pain relief for abdominal issues. Uses: Infusion for relaxation and better sleep. Mint Properties: Aids digestion, relieves headaches, has antiseptic properties. Uses: In tea, herbal infusions, and food. Thyme Properties: Antiseptic, cough relief, boosts immune system. Uses: In foods, herbal teas, and inhalation. Basil Properties: Anti-inflammatory, immune booster, calming. Uses: In salads, soups, and sauces. Ginger Properties: Anti-nausea, anti-inflammatory, immune booster. Uses: In tea, foods, and herbal infusions. Garlic Properties: Lowers blood pressure, antibacterial, antiviral. Uses: In foods and as a supplement. Sage Properties: Aids memory, anti-inflammatory, relieves menstrual pain. Uses: In tea and herbal infusions. Important Considerations for Using Medicinal Plants: Consultation with a Doctor: Always consult a doctor before using medicinal plants, especially if you have specific health conditions or are taking other medications. Quality and Source: Use high-quality plants from reputable sources. Side Effects: Be aware that some plants may have side effects or interact with other medications. Using medicinal plants can promote health and prevent diseases, but it should be done with caution and awareness.