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Full Dormancy Until Before Bud Swell in Saplings

Full Dormancy Until Before Bud Swell in Saplings The phrase “full dormancy until before bud swell” refers to the most critical window for moving and planting bare-root saplings. A solid grasp of this concept is key to successful establishment. This phrase points to the sapling’s physiological state during winter dormancy. Let’s break it down into three parts: Full Dormancy What is it? Full dormancy (the dormant or quiescent period) is a survival mechanism in temperate plants that allows them to withstand winter cold. During this time, metabolic activity and growth are nearly halted. Visible signs: - The plant is completely leafless (in deciduous species). - Buds are very small, firm, and tightly closed. - No signs of growth or greening are visible anywhere on the sapling. Why it matters: In this state, the sapling is at its most resilient. With no leaves to transpire, water demand is minimal. Energy is stored as carbohydrates in the roots and woody tissues, ready to fuel new growth in spring. Bud Swell What is it? Bud swell is the first sign that the plant is exiting winter dormancy. As temperatures rise and days lengthen, growth hormones activate and sap flow increases toward the buds. Visible signs: - Buds begin to enlarge and swell. - Bud scales start to separate. - The green tip of leaves or flower parts may become visible. Why it matters: Bud swell signals that the plant has “woken up” and is on the verge of active growth. At this stage, the plant has a high demand for water and energy to produce new leaves and shoots. The Golden Window: “From Full Dormancy Until Before Bud Swell This is the best and most ideal time for any operation involving bare-root saplings (purchase, transport, and planting).

10/15/2025 11:32:00 PM View More

Damaging Winds and Newly Planted Saplings

Damaging Winds and Newly Planted Saplings For newly planted saplings, damaging winds (i.e., strong or storm-force winds) can have serious consequences. Wind is one of the main stressors for newly planted saplings and can harm them in various ways. Effects of damaging winds on newly planted saplings: 1) Stem breakage or bending: Young saplings have soft, flexible stems, but in strong winds they may break or become permanently bent. 2) Root detachment from the soil (wind rock): The root system of newly planted saplings is not yet well anchored. Strong winds can shake the sapling and loosen the roots from the soil—a phenomenon known as wind rock. Persistent wind-induced movement causes the sapling to become loose in the soil. This motion damages the fine, hair-like roots responsible for water and nutrient uptake and disrupts the plant’s establishment. 3) Rapid drying of leaves and stems (excessive evaporation): Strong wind increases the evaporation of water from leaf surfaces. If the roots cannot absorb enough water, the sapling will wilt and may even die. By increasing the rate of evaporation and transpiration from the leaves, wind causes rapid water loss in the plant.

10/16/2025 11:12:00 PM View More

heat waves: why they matter to nursery owners and how to fight them

Heat waves: why they matter to nursery owners and how to fight them A complete, structured, and practical guide focused on saplings and nursery operations Overview For a nursery owner, a heat wave is not just bad weather; it’s a direct threat to inventory, cash flow, reputation, and business continuity. Dense collections of young, containerized plants are far more vulnerable than field‑established trees. Winning against heat waves requires early warning, pre‑season preparation, fast operational responses, and smart aftercare. What is a heat wave and why is it dangerous for saplings? - Definition: A period of abnormally high temperatures (typically >35–40°C) lasting days to weeks, often paired with low humidity, hot winds, and water scarcity. - Why saplings suffer: Young plants (especially in year 1) have shallow/weak root systems, high leaf area to root mass, and limited water/energy reserves. Container media and black pots heat quickly; root zones can exceed air temperature by 10–20°C. Section 1) Impacts of heat waves on saplings 1) Evapotranspiration spikes - High temperature + hot wind + low RH = rapid leaf water loss → roots cannot keep up → physiological wilting.

10/13/2025 9:20:00 AM View More

Frost waves

Frost waves: a complete, structured, and practical guide for nurseries (impact on saplings and how to fight back) Overview - What it is: a rapid-onset period of sub‑zero air temperatures (hours to days) that can ice plant surfaces, chill tissues below 0°C, and injure/kill saplings. - Why it matters in nurseries: saplings breaking dormancy (swollen buds, tender leaves) are highly vulnerable; one cold snap can wipe a year of growth and sales. - Keys to survival: early warning, the right protection method for the type of event, disciplined execution (start/stop rules), and timely aftercare. 1) What exactly is a “frost wave” (cold snap)? - Definition: a period of sub‑zero air temperatures that arrives suddenly (often late fall or early spring), lasts hours to several days, and commonly features clear skies, a temperature inversion, and calm/light winds. - Frost vs freeze injury: - Frost: ice forms on surfaces when air/surface fall below 0°C. - Freeze injury (cold injury): internal tissues drop below their freezing point (can occur even if air sits just above 0°C due to radiation cooling). - Two main meteorological types (your tactics depend on which you face): - Radiational frost (clear, calm): heat radiates to the sky; strong inversion forms (warmer air aloft). Best candidates for fans, covers, and sprinkler protection. - Advective freeze (cold, windy air mass): low humidity and wind; little/no inversion. Fans are ineffective; protection relies on heavy water application or not feasible beyond mild events.

10/12/2025 11:52:00 PM View More

Plant dormancy

Plant dormancy: what it is, why it happens, and how to care for dormant plants Overview Dormancy is a natural stage in many plants’ life cycles when growth and metabolism temporarily stop or slow sharply. It’s a survival strategy that helps plants ride out harsh conditions such as winter cold and frost, extreme summer heat, or drought. When conditions improve, the plant “wakes up” and resumes a new growth cycle. Why plants enter dormancy 1) Climate and weather - Cold (winter dormancy): In temperate regions, shorter days and falling temperatures trigger leaf drop and growth stoppage in deciduous trees (e.g., apple, maple, oak) to avoid freeze damage. - Heat and drought (summer dormancy): In hot, arid areas, some plants go dormant to cope with water scarcity and intense heat. 2) Internal factors - Hormonal control (part of the plant’s natural life cycle), including increased abscisic acid (ABA) that promotes dormancy. What happens during dormancy - Growth stops: No new shoots, leaves, or roots are produced. - Metabolism slows: Energy and water use drop to a minimum. - Leaf drop: Deciduous plants shed leaves to reduce water loss and frost injury. - Energy storage: Carbohydrates are stored in roots, bulbs, or underground stems for use in the next growing season.

10/7/2025 9:36:00 AM View More

Comprehensive Guide to Planting and Caring for Almond Trees

The almond tree is one of the most valuable and popular fruit trees in Iran and worldwide. Besides producing nutritious and tasty nuts, it plays a significant economic role. According to recent statistics, Iran is among the top almond producers in the world, and a large portion of its production is exported to other countries.

10/4/2025 7:42:00 PM View More

The Best Time to Plant Almond Trees

One of the main questions farmers often ask when establishing an almond orchard is: When is the best time to plant almond trees? The answer depends on the climatic conditions of the region, the type of seedling, and the planting method.

10/3/2025 5:44:00 AM View More

How to Choose the Best Almond Sapling? A Complete Guide to Buying Almond Saplings

The almond tree (Prunus dulcis) is one of the most valuable and economically important fruit trees in Iran and many parts of the world. Due to its high nutritional value, strong market demand, relative drought tolerance, and profitability, almond cultivation has been increasing in many regions.

9/26/2025 9:28:00 AM View More

When to Spray Almond Trees: A Comprehensive Guide to Pest and Disease Management

Almond tree spraying is a strategic process that must be carried out based on precise timing, proper selection of the pesticide, adherence to safety principles, and coordination with other management methods. Five key stages, namely the winter dormancy period, bud swelling, after petal fall, fruit growth period, and after harvest, are milestones where proper implementation of the operation can play a decisive role in increasing yield, reducing costs, and maintaining environmental health.

9/24/2025 7:08:00 PM View More

best-seasons-to-plant-hybrid-pistachio-seedlings

Best seasons to plant hybrid pistachio seedlings (e.g., UCB‑1) across regions + first‑year care essentials Quick take - Golden rule: plant while trees are dormant and before intense heat or damaging winds so roots can establish. - Bare‑root is planted only during dormancy; container/bagged stock is more flexible, but still avoid heat waves. Recommended timing by climate/elevation | Climate/region (examples) | Bare-root (grafted/rootstock) | Container/bagged | Key notes | |---|---|---|---| | Cold highlands >1,500 m (e.g., high Khorasan, parts of Qazvin/Kurdistan) | Late Esfand → mid Farvardin (≈ late Mar → mid Apr) | Farvardin → Ordibehesht (≈ Mar → May) | Avoid autumn planting (frost risk). Soil must not be frozen or waterlogged at planting. | | Temperate semi‑arid 800–1,500 m (Yazd, Semnan, higher Kerman/Khorasan) | Mid Esfand → Farvardin (≈ mid Mar → Apr) | Mehr–Aban (≈ Oct–Nov) or Farvardin–Ordibehesht (≈ Mar–May) | Where autumn is stable and early frosts are rare, Oct–Nov is excellent (roots stay active over winter). | | Warm–dry central/southern <800–1,000 m (lower Rafsanjan, lower Yazd, warm plains of Kerman) | Esfand → early Farvardin (≈ Mar) | Mehr–Aban (best) or Esfand–Farvardin (≈ Oct–Nov or Mar) | Avoid heat from Khordad (≈ Jun) onward. Autumn planting lets roots reach depth before summer. | | Very warm with mild winters (Khuzestan, Bushehr, south Fars) | Dey–Bahman–Esfand (≈ Dec–Mar) | Mehr–Azar (≈ Oct–Dec) | Heavy rains = waterlogging risk; secure drainage. Avoid planting close to spring heat waves. | | Windy, hot–dry (Sistan & Baluchestan; “120‑day winds”) | Esfand (≈ Mar) | Mehr–Aban or Esfand (≈ Oct–Nov or Mar) | Plant before winds start; trunk guards, staking, and temporary/permanent windbreaks are essential. |

9/24/2025 11:28:00 PM View More

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