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Plant dormancy

Plant dormancy

Plant dormancy: what it is, why it happens, and how to care for dormant plants Overview Dormancy is a natural stage in many plants’ life cycles when growth and metabolism temporarily stop or slow sharply. It’s a survival strategy that helps plants ride out harsh conditions such as winter cold and frost, extreme summer heat, or drought. When conditions improve, the plant “wakes up” and resumes a new growth cycle. Why plants enter dormancy 1) Climate and weather - Cold (winter dormancy): In temperate regions, shorter days and falling temperatures trigger leaf drop and growth stoppage in deciduous trees (e.g., apple, maple, oak) to avoid freeze damage. - Heat and drought (summer dormancy): In hot, arid areas, some plants go dormant to cope with water scarcity and intense heat. 2) Internal factors - Hormonal control (part of the plant’s natural life cycle), including increased abscisic acid (ABA) that promotes dormancy. What happens during dormancy - Growth stops: No new shoots, leaves, or roots are produced. - Metabolism slows: Energy and water use drop to a minimum. - Leaf drop: Deciduous plants shed leaves to reduce water loss and frost injury. - Energy storage: Carbohydrates are stored in roots, bulbs, or underground stems for use in the next growing season.

Comprehensive Guide to Planting and Caring for Almond Trees

Comprehensive Guide to Planting and Caring for Almond Trees

The almond tree is one of the most valuable and popular fruit trees in Iran and worldwide. Besides producing nutritious and tasty nuts, it plays a significant economic role. According to recent statistics, Iran is among the top almond producers in the world, and a large portion of its production is exported to other countries.

The Best Time to Plant Almond Trees

The Best Time to Plant Almond Trees

One of the main questions farmers often ask when establishing an almond orchard is: When is the best time to plant almond trees? The answer depends on the climatic conditions of the region, the type of seedling, and the planting method.

When to Spray Almond Trees: A Comprehensive Guide to Pest and Disease Management

When to Spray Almond Trees: A Comprehensive Guide to Pest and Disease Management

Almond tree spraying is a strategic process that must be carried out based on precise timing, proper selection of the pesticide, adherence to safety principles, and coordination with other management methods. Five key stages, namely the winter dormancy period, bud swelling, after petal fall, fruit growth period, and after harvest, are milestones where proper implementation of the operation can play a decisive role in increasing yield, reducing costs, and maintaining environmental health.

best-seasons-to-plant-hybrid-pistachio-seedlings

best-seasons-to-plant-hybrid-pistachio-seedlings

Best seasons to plant hybrid pistachio seedlings (e.g., UCB‑1) across regions + first‑year care essentials Quick take - Golden rule: plant while trees are dormant and before intense heat or damaging winds so roots can establish. - Bare‑root is planted only during dormancy; container/bagged stock is more flexible, but still avoid heat waves. Recommended timing by climate/elevation | Climate/region (examples) | Bare-root (grafted/rootstock) | Container/bagged | Key notes | |---|---|---|---| | Cold highlands >1,500 m (e.g., high Khorasan, parts of Qazvin/Kurdistan) | Late Esfand → mid Farvardin (≈ late Mar → mid Apr) | Farvardin → Ordibehesht (≈ Mar → May) | Avoid autumn planting (frost risk). Soil must not be frozen or waterlogged at planting. | | Temperate semi‑arid 800–1,500 m (Yazd, Semnan, higher Kerman/Khorasan) | Mid Esfand → Farvardin (≈ mid Mar → Apr) | Mehr–Aban (≈ Oct–Nov) or Farvardin–Ordibehesht (≈ Mar–May) | Where autumn is stable and early frosts are rare, Oct–Nov is excellent (roots stay active over winter). | | Warm–dry central/southern <800–1,000 m (lower Rafsanjan, lower Yazd, warm plains of Kerman) | Esfand → early Farvardin (≈ Mar) | Mehr–Aban (best) or Esfand–Farvardin (≈ Oct–Nov or Mar) | Avoid heat from Khordad (≈ Jun) onward. Autumn planting lets roots reach depth before summer. | | Very warm with mild winters (Khuzestan, Bushehr, south Fars) | Dey–Bahman–Esfand (≈ Dec–Mar) | Mehr–Azar (≈ Oct–Dec) | Heavy rains = waterlogging risk; secure drainage. Avoid planting close to spring heat waves. | | Windy, hot–dry (Sistan & Baluchestan; “120‑day winds”) | Esfand (≈ Mar) | Mehr–Aban or Esfand (≈ Oct–Nov or Mar) | Plant before winds start; trunk guards, staking, and temporary/permanent windbreaks are essential. |

How to boost the environmental resilience of hybrid pistachio seedlings

How to boost the environmental resilience of hybrid pistachio seedlings

How to boost the environmental resilience of hybrid pistachio seedlings A practical guide to increasing tolerance to stress At a glance - Hybrid seedlings (e.g., UCB‑1) are naturally vigorous and somewhat more tolerant, but lasting resilience only comes from strong roots, healthy soil, good‑quality water, and physical protection. - Year‑one focus: drive deep root establishment, prevent waterlogging/sunburn, keep nutrition balanced, and “harden” the plant gradually. 1) Site and soil preparation - Make drainage a sure thing: in heavy/clayey soils, plant on raised beds/berms; keep the crown from ever sitting in water. - Pre‑plant soil test: correct sodicity with gypsum (if SAR is high); add well‑matured organic matter to improve structure and moisture retention. - Increase rootable depth: deep ripping/subsoiling along the planting line (if there’s a hardpan) so the taproot can penetrate. - Beneficial microbiology: dip/inoculate roots with mycorrhizae/Trichoderma at planting to improve drought/salinity tolerance and root health.

Methods for producing hybrid pistachio seedlings

Methods for producing hybrid pistachio seedlings

Methods for producing hybrid pistachio seedlings At a glance - In pistachio, “hybrid” typically refers to interspecific hybrid rootstocks (e.g., P. atlantica × P. integerrima = UCB‑1). - Two main production pathways: 1) Seedling (from controlled or semi‑controlled crosses). 2) Clonal (vegetative propagation of an elite hybrid via cuttings or micropropagation). 1) Seed-propagated hybrids (the most common route for UCB‑1) 1.1) Controlled pollination (hand/controlled crosses) - How it’s done: - Parent selection: female P. atlantica (or closely related beneh) × pollen of P. integerrima. - Pollen collection and testing (viability/vigor), bagging female clusters, pollinating at peak stigma receptivity, thorough labeling. - Harvest seed, remove hull, disinfect, cold‑stratify, and sow in deep containers. - Screen for hybridity (ideally with molecular markers) and rogue out non‑hybrid contamination. - Pros: high hybrid percentage, better uniformity, clear pedigree traceability. - Cons: higher labor/cost; requires pollen isolation.

Economic benefits of planting hybrid pistachio seedlings

Economic benefits of planting hybrid pistachio seedlings

Economic benefits of planting hybrid pistachio seedlings At a glance - Earlier cash flow: Hybrid-rootstock trees (e.g., UCB‑1) typically reach economic yield about one season earlier and produce more in the juvenile years. - Lower losses and replacement costs: Better tolerance to soilborne diseases (especially Verticillium) means fewer dead trees and fewer “empty spots” in the block. - Uniform growth, cheaper management: More uniform trees = simpler operations (pruning, irrigation, fertigation) and fewer management errors. - More stable gradeable yield: Under stress (salinity/disease/heat), a higher share of saleable crop is preserved. Note: In pistachio, “hybrid” most often refers to the rootstock (e.g., UCB‑1). Market quality/pricing depends mainly on the scion (female cultivar), but a hybrid rootstock improves economics via growth, survival, and uniformity. Benefits, by economic lever 1) Revenue lift - Earlier bearing by 1–2 seasons under good management → higher cumulative yield in years 4–7. - Higher early-year yields: depending on soil/water/disease pressure, +5–15% is often reported. - Quality preservation under stress: in some orchards, +2–5 percentage points higher split and fewer blanks in tough years—directly lifting Grade‑1 sales.

Best practices for caring for pistachio saplings in year one

Best practices for caring for pistachio saplings in year one

Best practices for caring for pistachio saplings in year one Summary - Year-one goal: root establishment, trunk protection, and building the initial framework; fruiting is not a priority. - Success = precise irrigation + sun/wind protection + light formative pruning + gentle nutrition + weed control. 1) Immediately after planting - Proper planting: a 60×60×60 cm hole; untangle/straighten roots; keep the graft union 15–20 cm above soil level. - Staking: install a sturdy stake; tie in a figure-8 to prevent bark damage. - Establishment irrigation: one thorough irrigation to wet 30–40 cm deep (with good drainage). Do not puddle the soil. - Trunk whitewash: dilute white acrylic paint 1:1 with water (or a ready horticultural whitewash) over the entire trunk up to just below the graft to prevent sunburn. - Protection: trunk guard (rodents/wind); in very hot areas, 30–50% shade cloth for the first 4–8 weeks.

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